What we have witnessed in fragrance over the past few years goes beyond a normal trend cycle. The category has moved from a growth story into something more structural. Almost a rebalancing of where emotional value sits within beauty.

Fragrance has emerged as beauty’s growth engine. In 2024, it was the fastest-growing category across both prestige and mass, and the second-largest prestige beauty category for the second year in a row, according to Circana. Even as luxury faces broader headwinds, fragrance continues to outperform. Euromonitor forecasts scent will drive 23 percent of total beauty growth between 2024 and 2029, growing at a 5.5 percent CAGR.

But market performance alone does not explain the momentum. The deeper driver is cultural.

We are living in a strange moment. AI is accelerating, technology is everywhere, and we are more networked than ever, yet loneliness, anxiety, and depression are rising. The World Health Organization estimates over 280 million people globally live with depression, and in the US nearly one in five adults experiences a mental health condition each year. Social media scaled connection, but it did not scale emotional safety.

This is where fragrance quietly steps in. Not as indulgence or luxury fluff, but as emotional infrastructure and a possible connection point.

Less, but better

We are moving from maximalism to meaning. Better formulas. Ingredients you can actually pronounce. This reflects quiet luxury, overstimulation fatigue, and growing sensitivity concerns. The return of molecular minimalism and simple single-ingridient focus compositions is not nostalgia. It is relief. Minimalism is becoming both an aesthetic choice and a pragmatic formulation strategy.

From smelling nice to nervous system care

Incense sales are peaking. Candle buyers are scrutinizing waxes, combustion, and air quality. This is not a wellness fad. It is a nervous system asking for mercy. Perfumery is moving toward functional emotional design. Scents for grounding, joy, sleep, focus. With AI and neuroscience entering the picture, we are shifting from single emotional claims to layered emotional benefits. Fragrance becomes a small daily ritual. Not escapism, but regulation.

Personalization and belonging

Personalization will stay. But so will the desire for shared references. Collectors want the classics of niche. In a fragmented culture, shared scent codes create belonging. Wearing a cult fragrance is a quiet way of saying, I am part of this tribe.

Sustainability, but make it interesting

For younger generations, sustainability is assumed. The question is how creatively brands show up. We are entering a phase of regenerative perfumery. AI-driven ingredients. New natural extracts from local foraging. Circularity. Rewilding. Scents inspired by soil, bark, tomato leaf, moss, mushrooms, and rain on stone. Alcohol-free formats. Water-based fragrances. Sustainability is no longer a constraint. It is the creative brief.

Fragrance is becoming the most human category in beauty. It bypasses the algorithm. It works directly on memory, emotion, and the nervous system. In an unstable economy and an overstimulated culture, scent becomes a form of quiet power. Portable. Intimate. Regulating.

The next era of fragrance will not be about smelling good. It will be about feeling seen and held.

The post The Scent Economy: What We’re Buying in 2026 When We Buy A Scent appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

As a consultant who spends time digging beneath surface trends, one thing is becoming crystal clear: the niche perfumery sector isn’t just growing—it’s being redefined.

The global niche fragrance market is now valued at approximately USD 9.3 billion in 2026 and is projected to exceed USD 21 billion by 2034, representing a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of around 9%. Demand continues to be fuelled by consumers seeking individuality, craftsmanship and storytelling over mass-market appeal.

Meanwhile, the Middle East fragrance market continues its impressive trajectory. Valued at around USD 4 billion in 2026, it is expected to approach USD 8 billion by 2034, growing at a CAGR of roughly 7–8%. Fragrance is not simply a beauty category in this region—it is woven into daily life, hospitality, culture and identity.

Within the UAE, the perfume market has now surpassed USD 800 million and is forecast to exceed USD 1.8 billion over the next decade. Premium and luxury fragrances continue to outperform the wider beauty sector, driven by strong purchasing power, cultural traditions and an increasingly sophisticated consumer base.

Big trend alert: Layering

Around the world, consumers are suddenly embracing fragrance layering. Two sprays here, an oil there, perhaps a body mist to finish. Social media presents it as the next innovation.

But layering isn’t new in the Gulf.

It has been part of Arab perfumery for centuries. Layering oud, bakhoor, attar oils, musk, and perfume creates depth, longevity, and a unique signature scent. It’s less about following a trend and more about expressing identity through ritual.

Contrast that with much of Western perfumery, where people traditionally view a fragrance as a complete artistic composition—choosing it, spraying it, and leaving it untouched.

The West is discovering layering.

The Gulf perfected it generations ago.

What I observe with my own skin in this climate

Walking the North, where heavy floral-honey scents, which might feel over-the-top elsewhere, suddenly open into something mysterious, sensual, and utterly elegant on my skin in the heat. Because the ingredients here (oud, amber, musk) have survived the desert, the heat, the evaporation phases. In the UAE, long-lasting fixatives aren’t a luxury, they’re essential!

That explains some behaviours: you apply more, you re-apply, the scent lasts hours. It’s not merely show-off, it’s message. It’s part of the covered look, the covered culture.

Consumption mindset & sizing

In the West, you buy 50ml, spray a couple of times, and rotate every season. Here? You think about the day ahead: meetings, hospitality, late prayer, incense, guest arrival — and you want your fragrance to carry you. So you reach for bigger sizes, you layer oils and prays, you respect the ritual.

Layering + evaporation in a hot climate means more “air” around the scent. You don’t want to suffocate others in a lounge — you want to invite them in.

It’s a cultural quest, not a show-off

This isn’t about just owning a rare bottle and flaunting it. It’s identity, blueprint, heritage. One cannot deny the cultural infrastructure: hospitality, ritual, personal space, guest reception, career relationships — all carry fragrance cues. And in business here, you’ll find the same logic applies: character first, skill second. Relationships trump brand names. Even if you’re dealing with big numbers and big names, the handshake, the personal integrity, the sustained presence matters more than the logo.

My assumption – now proven in just one month living here: That you can walk in with vision, focus and strength, and it matters. Contentment isn’t passivity. It’s being able to connect through your character, respect the traditions and tempo (traffic, late arrival, minute of meditation and prayer).

My thinking now: this might deepen, it might shift. That’s okay. Trends change, layering evolves, new fragrance structures emerge. But appreciate what’s underneath first, learn from it, don’t just overlay it with Western flavour.

Key take-aways for business & fragrance execs:

• Don’t ignore the Middle East’s perfumery roots: they’re not peripheral, they’re foundational.
• Niche scented brands must respect layering rituals, the longer-wear culture and the importance of fixatives in hot climates.
• When entering the UAE & Gulf markets: size, concentration, ritual matter. Quick spray in morning and leave? You’ll be forgotten by noon.
• And for networking, partnerships, brand building: presence and character hold more weight than the loudest campaign.

I’ll keep watching this space — my nose open, my business antennae ready. There’s disruption ahead. But for now, let the scent of tradition guide innovation.

The post The Smell of Integrity: Lessons from the UAE and Why Character Still Wins in Business appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

Having an idea! It all starts from the idea.

And ideas are born not by mimicking others or doing market research. Yes, one can conduct market research and create a sort of a Frankenstein based on trends and other success stories, but it will never last and it will never be perceived as something original and authentic. So, first, be blessed by the idea that feels right to you and start developing it.

Then have a clear business plan and finances

Fix your finances, get a CFO, and think long-term. It’s not about budgeting just for the first season. It’s about budgeting for re-orders, new launches, marketing, and a 3-year plan.

Get your product right (and production lane)

It’s about the quality that brings consumers back to the yard (holla at ya girl Kelis here), aka sell-out, and production lane: make sure seamless reproduction for reorders. Be ready to scale up. It’s okay to start small and artisanal, but when distribution demand rises and you want to secure partnerships and deliver, make sure you have a Plan B — a Bold Growth plan.

Get a great and well-connected sales director

Someone who has an eye for the market, aligns with your brand’s philosophy, and understands the business plan — different expansion and growth plans.

Brand communication (ex marketing) — think both online and offline

Brand awareness is constant education and educating. It is never-ending. Campaigns here and there are okay but remember — content management is NOT social media management. Content is about identity and what stays; social media is about momentum — momentum that exists here and now, in this moment of culture, time, and market.

What makes brands last and guarantees duration is a clear strategy and vision; being rational and flexible in terms of making changes and choosing well, which means taking time to research. And last but not least, probably the most important — once the research has been done, numbers calculated, and strategy set in stone, have the belief to make things happen. This also means believing in the people you work with, your teammates and colleagues; believing in your partners, distributors, and so on.

The post What Beginner Perfume Brands Are Doing Wrong When Starting Their Business appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

While headlines are dominated by global conflict, economic instability, and existential dread, something softer is emerging in fragrance. We’re witnessing a surge in fruity, sweet, lactonic, candy-like perfumes with notes like peach, mango, banana, vanilla ice cream, and cotton candy.

What may seem frivolous at first glance is deeply psychological: scent is becoming a form of self-soothing.

And it’s not just a Gen Z TikTok trend — it’s a real, measurable market shift. This isn’t merely a gourmand revival; it’s a collective, aromatherapeutic pivot, especially within niche perfumery.

The Macro Backdrop: War, Inflation, Instability → Sensory Escapism

Consumers are living in a state of nervous system overload — relentless war coverage, economic anxiety, AI-driven uncertainty, burnout, and climate change fear. They don’t want to smell like power anymore. They’re not buying “cool.” They’re buying comfort.

According to NPD Group, gourmand fragrances grew +24% year-over-year in the prestige category as of Q1 2025. And the niche fragrance industry, often perceived as artistic and avant-garde, is embracing playful, sweet-forward compositions. Brands are meeting the demand and notable 2025 launches include:

Fugazzi – Magic Mango: Tropical and serotonin-boosting. Mango nectar meets late-afternoon sun.

27 87 – Hakuna Matata: A banana-centric scent balanced with sensual jasmine and honey. Whimsical and long-wearing.

Scentologia – Lactonic: Your favorite ice cream scoop, where notions of pistachio and almond interact with milky vanilla. Surprisingly addictive.

BORNTOSTANDOUT – Candy Dust: Milk wraps tart raspberry and juicy pear, layered with sugar and tonka. A perfume you want to taste.

BDK – Impadia: Like a floral praline candy with vanilla and sweet citrus in the background. Addictive and sensual.

Fragrance Isn’t the Only Industry Affected

The same logic applies in adjacent luxury categories. Consider the Labubu toy phenomenon — a kawaii, mischievous elf now styled with Hermès Birkins. At first glance, it may seem contradictory. In reality, it symbolizes a reconciliation between high luxury and psychological fatigue. That little charm? It’s not just aesthetic — it’s emotional armor. Today’s consumers aren’t simply flexing wealth; they’re expressing a need for safety through childlike details.

Why This Matters in B2B Niche Perfumery

This isn’t just a cultural moment — it’s a commercial shift. Even fragrance connoisseurs, once loyal to bold and oud-heavy compositions, are now seeking softness. They’re looking for emotional release and personal indulgence. Niche is no longer synonymous with “serious.” It’s now  playful and delightfully sweet. This shift is especially resonating in GCC markets, where emotional luxury and sensory familiarity are driving fragrance loyalty. As consumers in the region shift toward uplifting and nostalgic olfactory experiences, brands that offer sweetness with sophistication are seeing strong traction.

What this means for the business:

VANILLA IS NO LONGER BASIC — sweetness, when done right, is strategic, sophisticated, and sometimes therapeutic.

TROPICAL IS IN — mango, banana, and coconut are rising fast, especially paired with clean musks or abstract textures.

LACTONES ARE THE NEW LEATHER — creamy, milky, second-skin notes are thriving across both indie and prestige lines.

CHILDLIKE ≠ CHILDISH — this is emotional escape and resilience. Silliness now carries a deeper meaning and play has power.

Final Thought

In 2025, a banana perfume isn’t a frivolity. It’s a lifeline. A coping mechanism. One sniff is a brief return to safety. When brands design gourmand luxury niche scents, they are offering a brief sanctuary in an anxious world. And if your fragrance can make someone feel like life is fun and safe? You’ve already won.

The post From Oud to Ice Cream: 2025 Winning Scent Profile Is Emotional Escape appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

The niche perfumery industry has experienced remarkable growth, with the global luxury perfume market valued at approximately USD 24.3 billion in 2024 and projected to reach USD 45.8 billion by 2033, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.7%.

This expansion is evident at events like Esxence 2025 in Milan, which celebrated its fifteenth edition with over 13,500 visitors and 384 brands from 38 countries, showcasing emerging trends in artistic perfumery.

However, rapid growth has attracted significant private equity investments. This trend raises major concerns about the commercialization of artistic perfumery.

Several indie brands are already partnering with major players. For example, South Korean brand BORNTOSTANDOUT, founded by Jun Lim, secured investments from Touch Capital. They also received backing from Bold, L’Oréal’s corporate venture capital firm. Similarly, FUGAZZI is known for its playful scents and approachable branding. The brand recently expanded its reach by partnering with EUROPERFUMES for U.S. distribution.

Cautionary Tales From the Fashion Industry

The fashion industry offers a clear cautionary tale for fragrance brands. Between 2022 and 2025, several major fashion brands faced severe financial turmoil. Major U.S. retailers announced 7,325 store closures in 2024 alone, marking a 33% increase from 2023.

Luxury retailers also felt the pressure. Matchesfashion reported rising losses, climbing from £5.9 million in 2020 to £70.9 million in 2023. These financial difficulties ultimately led to its closure in early 2024.

Prioritizing Authenticity and Independence

Despite these challenges, some niche perfumery brands continue to thrive. They succeed by maintaining their independence and authenticity.

Brands like Nasomatto and Orto Parisi stay true to their roots. They rely on unapologetic communication and unconventional marketing practices. As a result, they achieve consistent growth regardless of global market fluctuations.

Meanwhile, brands like 27 87 and WA:IT Botanicamente focus on coherent branding and sustainability. They prioritize genuine connections with consumers. This dedication offers a clear glimpse of hope for the future of the niche fragrance industry.

Conclusion: A Pivotal Choice for the Fragrance World

As niche perfumery evolves, the industry faces a critical crossroads. Brands can pursue aggressive expansion, but they risk over-commercialization and market saturation. Alternatively, they can prioritize sustainable growth and true authenticity.

Strategic decisions made by brands and retail partners will decide the future. Ultimately, these choices determine whether niche perfumery maintains its unique allure or falls into the same pitfalls as the fashion sector.

Sources: globenewswire.com, businessinsider.com, voguebusiness.com

The post What is The Future of Niche Perfumery?  appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

The lifestyle sector has seen massive shifts in consumer behavior recently. In particular, luxury market setbacks like the collapse of Matchesfashion have changed consumer priorities. Furthermore, global crises such as the Russia-Ukraine war have accelerated this dramatic pivot.

Consequently, younger generations like Gen Z and millennials are leading the change. They now actively demand authenticity and sustainability, especially within the beauty and well-being sectors. Ultimately, this paradigm shift highlights a crucial new direction. Brands must focus on clean beauty and experience-led strategies, particularly in Asian markets.

The Influence of Global Events on Future Buyers 

Recent global events have left a lasting imprint on younger consumers. For instance, the COVID-19 pandemic and rising geopolitical tensions heavily altered the state of mind of Gen Z and younger millennials.

As a result, these generations are now more conscious than ever about their spending. Specifically, they focus deeply on the environmental and ethical implications of their purchasing decisions. Because of this, ninety percent of Gen Z and younger millennials want to buy clean beauty products in the future.

Clean beauty products emphasize sustainability, natural ingredients, and ethical practices. Therefore, they successfully spark strong interest and loyalty among these demographics. Looking ahead, the market shows incredible promise. By 2027, overall revenue is expected to grow by 12% in the global clean beauty market.

Rise of Key Markets: China, Japan, South Korea, the US and Germany 

Several countries are quickly emerging as key global players. Currently, five nations dominate the retail cosmetics and toiletries segment. These markets are China, Japan, South Korea, the US, and Germany. Together, they command a massive 60% of the global market share.

In addition, several clear factors contribute to the prominence of these markets. For example, rising disposable incomes and a growing awareness of clean beauty drive steady growth. Consumers also have more knowledge about non-invasive alternative beauty practices.

Consequently, beauty and wellness brands must adapt if they want to expand their global footprint. They need to strategically align their efforts with these dynamic regions. Doing so will allow them to capitalize on market opportunities effectively.

The Role of WA:IT in Shaping the Future 

As a pioneering carbon-negative wellness brand, WA:IT embodies the essence of modern beauty that resonates with today’s conscientious consumers. Our fusion of Japanese tranquillity and Italian vibrancy captures the essence of beauty’s duality, offering products that evoke mood-lifting experiences rooted in authenticity. 

Sustainability is not just a buzzword at WA:IT; it’s at the core of our mission. From ethically sourced ingredients to operating in a carbon-negative manner, we set new standards in the industry. Our recent participation in the New York Climate Week Summit underscores our commitment to reshaping the beauty industry’s production chains and perceptions. 

As we expand into the USA and Asian markets, we are excited to introduce our unique brand ethos to a wider audience. Our specialized SPA protocols and product ranges tailored for the travel and wellness hospitality sectors reflect our dedication to providing holistic experiences that transcend traditional beauty norms. 

In collaboration with Piero Lissoni, founder of Lissoni & Partners, we recently unveiled our latest creation, the TOKA scented candle, adding another dimension to our product offerings. As the beauty and wellness landscape continues to evolve, WA:IT remains at the forefront, inspiring authentic beauty journeys that celebrate sustainability, mindfulness, and the art of conscious presence. 

Statistics Source: Ulta Research Services LLC. 

The post Unfolding Clean Beauty and Experience-Led Strategies: Why Beauty Brands Should Focus on Asia appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

Different professions foster different attitudes and lifestyles. In the world of scent, developing a systematic standard for perfumery criticism requires deep smelling, weighing, and thinking.

There’s always a good amount of pure, cute naivety in a beginner. The search for truth begins the moment you decide to run. Whether you choose a marathon or a sprint depends entirely on your vision and personality.

If you choose the marathon, you must still practice sprints and breathing in between. Breathe in and breathe out. Train, reflect, create, and summarize.

One of those sprints took place for me in Milan at Esxence, a tradeshow dedicated to the art of perfumery. The discussions heard and products experienced triggered something in me. They moved both the culture enthusiast and the frank person who enjoys arguments that evoke a positive, developing sense of criticism.

WHY DO WE FOCUS ON SCENT?

Before we proceed, one has to answer a basic question. Why do we focus on the sense of smell and perfumes? The reasons are mostly multi-disciplinary and cross-cultural.

To begin with, perfumes are about intelligence and beauty. However, beauty differs from one cultural room to another, and from person to person. It remains ungraspable because it is based on unique experiences and knowledge. Ultimately, a perfume is a beautiful work of art.

We must also consider the well-known fact that smell connects deeply with our memory. It constantly plays upon the feeling of nostalgia. This is a truth we all know well from our personal experiences.

Furthermore, a sense of mystery surrounds the entire medium, and humans are simply curious by nature. Smell cannot be easily transmitted like images or melodies. Because it is less reliable than vision or sound, it raises fascinating questions about communication and interpretation.

Finally, from a storyteller’s point of view, scents are chemical narratives. They act as novellas and poems that carry deep meanings. These sensory messages are meant to be perceived and kept close.

PERFUMERY CULTURE IS…

…’farouche’ as they say in French, meaning both ‘shy’ and ‘fierce’ at the same time. I started on the shy side. I learned the basics by reading and measuring scented poems line by line in a Paris laboratory.

Soon, I discovered that the industry holds numerous opinions and opinion holders. Many of these individuals barely touch a pipette or stand near a scale. Yet, they still voice annoying opinions about oriental scents. They clearly do not know how frustrating it really is to work resinoids into a perfume formula.

(background sound: ‘Drop It Like It’s Hot’ by Snoop Dogg)

Prophet Muhammad was said to be a perfume lover. One of his quotes states that perfume is the intangible quality of God—the unmeasurable and otherworldly.

We can also view a perfume as a cultural product full of meanings. But how do we perceive it correctly? How do we evaluate its quality or interpret its message? Where exactly do we position this mysterious piece of art?

To hear more perspectives, I attended the Esxence lectures in Milan. I wanted to hear new approaches to perfumery criticism, and of course, smell them all!

THE STABLE MARKETING POINT OF VIEW

It is easy to grasp and understand fragrance from a marketing point of view. This approach simply views the fragrance as a commercial product.

We can easily evaluate the packaging or calculate the cost of raw materials. We look at the effort spent to produce “the story” behind the creation—the ones “connected with the soul” or “inspired by travels to exotic places.”

We are all familiar with these narratives. They are often inspiring, great, and educational. Here, we sense perfume from a consumer point of view. We look at where it is distributed, how the media communicates it, and who fills the target group. This approach offers a clear, logical system where numbers and statistics matter most.

ILLUMINATING BEYOND THE NUMBERS

Coming from the world of semiotics and qualitative research, I must stay true to my roots. I agree with Vin Scully, who said that statistics are used much like a drunk uses a lamppost: for support, not illumination. Let’s provide some illumination.

THE ART POINT OF VIEW IN PERFUMERY CRITICISM

Many of us, including myself, state that perfumery is art. If so, how do we evaluate it? How do we criticize a fragrance from an artistic perspective?

During the Esxence panel on perfumery criticism, the right approach remained unclear. Speakers offered comparisons to the movie industry, award systems, literature, and authorship.

The discussion mostly focused on exchanging information, sharing impressions, and creating a shared language. We can certainly “culturize” scents this way to make them more domestic. However, this is still not enough to develop a true system for evaluation. In my frank opinion, the actual logic of criticism went missing during this panel.

BORROWING TOOLS FROM CINEMA AND LOGIC

Analyzing perfumes through their creators is a beautiful, poetic idea. It provides fruitful ground for a breakdown, but it relies too heavily on a subject-focused approach. It does not give us a proper playground.

Instead, we could borrow frameworks from the movie industry. Cinema provides plenty of schools and tools to analyze moving images and their hidden meanings. We can study the language of film and its cultural codes. Great contributions by Italian, French, and Russian theorists offer an incredibly wide variety of analytical tools.

If we want a serious standard for fragrance criticism, we should develop a similarly systematic approach. We can base it on structuralist views or language logic.

Fortunately, we already have a great foundation. Masters like Edmond Roudnitska applied Kantian aesthetic judgment to his writings and creations. To establish a true language of perfumery, we need a system of scented logic. For instance, we could borrow frameworks from logicians and semioticians like Ludwig Wittgenstein or Roland Barthes.

ON THE CONTRIBUTION OF ONLINE OPINION LEADERS

Freedom is great, and digital platforms give everyone the freedom to express themselves. It is wonderful to have spaces where like-minded people connect, share knowledge, and learn from one another.

However, we must ask: is this online crowd always right? Should we mistake public noise for true expertise?

According to creators, parts of this digital consensus are not exactly true or accurate. Often, they are just a heavy mass of personal opinions and reflections.

The panel discussion heavily glorified the rise of the online community. Unfortunately, they missed the other side of the coin. Beyond the positive awareness these digital leaders create, a harmful side exists. The actual expertise behind these online opinions is sometimes highly questionable.

REAL EXPERTISE VS. ONLINE LIKES

Start-ups are great, but they excel when the people behind them possess real education and experience. You cannot become an expert out of the blue just by buying a camera and blogging about a curious topic.

Pardon my French, but I do not mean to imply that analyzing scent is easy. It is not. However, it is far too easy to generate empty opinions and social media likes. These subjective metrics cannot form the foundation of real critique.

Sometimes I speak too much, and sometimes I do not speak at all. Yet, I remain deeply curious to explore, learn, and understand. I highly value dialogue, and I believe having a strong stance is essential.

When we speak of perfumery criticism, it must be fair, professional, and conscious. It needs to acknowledge cultural backgrounds, varied interpretations, and how environment alters meaning.

THE FUTURE OF SCENT EVALUATION

Criticism is cold and calculated. It must be systematic, objective, and balanced.

If we want to build a vocabulary and grammar for perfumery, we cannot look only at the final product. We cannot rely solely on the impressions of the market.

A true critic considers all elements, codes, and lines. We must evaluate the raw materials used, their quality, and the complexity or simplicity of the formula. We have to analyze the outcome, the sensory effect, and the resulting meanings. This requires personal reflection built on a deep knowledge of the classics to detect unoriginal copies.

A perfume is far more than a simple story or a nose behind a brand. Perfumery is a highly complex entity to analyze.

American drama critic George Jean Nathan once said that criticism represents the windows and chandeliers of art. It illuminates the darkness where art might otherwise rest unseen. Critique is essential for an art piece to survive and come alive.

After visiting Esxence and talking with creators, one thing is clear. The industry possesses immense passion, years of dedicated learning, and beautifully curated art pieces. Scent-making is definitely an art, but we still need to build the framework for its criticism.

Perhaps this write-up leans too far into the fierce side of ‘farouche’, reflecting the ambitious view of a newcomer. I might eat my words in a couple of years. Maybe yes, maybe no. But one thing is certain: there is always a way to evolve, improve, and become better.

The post When Criticising Scents appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

Since its premiere in 1950, Akira Kurosawa’s film Rashomon has symbolized the subjectivity of truth. The movie illustrates how our surroundings shape our individual perspectives. However, the frame becomes far too small when we try to define ourselves.

Recent events in my life forced me to look at my path differently. I now see that one big truth connects all of our fragmented experiences.

Finding Professional Freedom

My career began in copywriting. Over time, I felt a strong urge to plan and lead projects instead of just writing them. Therefore, I took on a diverse series of tasks and roles. Curiosity quickly drove me to analyze different leadership types. I wanted to understand the deep motivations behind human behavior in business.

This holistic approach successfully bridged the gap between personal ethics and business goals. My work focused heavily on core values, respectful communication, and genuine appreciation. Soon, this distinct mindset began attracting creative people and unconventional projects. I naturally connected with inspiring brands and forward-thinking creators.

I worked closely with company founders to bridge messy gaps between departments. My daily role involved managing both rational operations and unpredictable creative processes. Navigating cultural differences and protecting out-of-the-box ideas became my specialty. Early on, I recognized the immense power of authenticity. This realization inspired the name of my business: THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

Despite spending most of my career freelancing—a path that built my deep self-discipline and rigorous planning skills—I regularly faced negative, outdated opinions. People often view a freelancer as “jobless” or a “hopeless multitasker.” Others dismiss them as an “overachiever” or a “small entrepreneur.” These limiting stereotypes frequently threatened to box in my true potential. For me, the most vital part of the journey was simply being free.

History actually supports this liberating philosophy. Sir Walter Scott first used the term ‘freelance’ in his famous book Ivanhoe, referring to a lord’s paid army of ‘free lances.’ In the early 1800s, the word designated a medieval mercenary warrior who offered their skills to whoever paid them the most. In a modern sense, I do the exact same thing. I offer top-tier strategies and tailored solutions to any brand that seeks my help. The journey toward this mindset brought many intense struggles, but my stubbornness helped me overcome every single obstacle. The excellent results proved that this unconventional path fits me perfectly. Fully embracing the freelance mindset proved that this unconventional path fits me perfectly.

The Evolution of Personal Liberty

While practicing professional freedom, my personal life tested my definition of liberty. I struggled to explain my unique emotional needs to others. The desire to be free did not mean I wanted an open relationship, nor did it mean I feared deep commitment. Instead, I wanted to prove that fierce independence and devotion can coexist. Sadly, I ran away whenever heavy confrontation arose.

People loved my professional work but judged my personal choices harshly. Eventually, I admitted my true desires to myself, and the tides turned. I started meeting new people who mirrored my energy. Critics often told me I had “too much personality” or “thought too much.” Rather than shrinking, I turned those criticisms into strengths to propel myself forward. I entirely refused to compromise my essence.

These personal difficulties shaped my current happiness and freedom. Today, I speak my mind openly, live autonomously, and commit to what I want. True liberty requires an immense level of personal responsibility and discipline. Many people who avoid solo paths do not realize this fact. Building a loving partnership requires you to face your deepest fears. Sometimes, you must stand still and accept the present moment exactly as it is. This hard work eventually helps you find your true self.

A Turning Point and Radical Solitude

Recently, I found fresh motivation from powerful books and media. Bernardine Evaristo’s Manifesto inspired my determination to never give up. I also learned a great deal from Rick Rubin’s The Creative Act and The Andy Warhol Diaries on Netflix. These stories helped me redefine creativity in my daily life and rediscover the freelance mindset.

At work, I faced a manipulative and highly unethical leadership style. At the same time, a personal relationship brought constant, painful judgment. These negative experiences pushed me to a major turning point. I learned a new way to be a true freelance warrior in modern society: you hold the ultimate power to lift yourself up. No physical, emotional, or financial low can stop your progression.

Remaining authentic required me to set strict boundaries. To navigate these massive changes, I needed total, quiet isolation. I consciously stepped away from my social life, friends, and family. This solitary time allowed me to be brutally honest with my own heart. During this period, I realized that human nature is inherently creative. True freedom lives entirely in unrestricted self-expression.

This internal breakthrough led to new partnerships built on mutual trust. Life deliberately presents challenges to make us resilient and unstoppable. No one actively enjoys struggling; even so, friction builds our character. I learned that lying to yourself leads straight to misery. Therefore, I cut off small-minded people and chronic gossipers. I walked away from those who judge or compare themselves to others. I set firm boundaries, even when people labeled me as unstable. Because I relied entirely on myself, I knew I would succeed. Soon, life rewarded me with supportive, wonderful people who cheered for my journey of searching, fighting, and dancing.

Feedback and Self-Belief

Letting go of external opinions posed a great challenge. For years, I depended heavily on public validation to measure my worth. I love receiving data on my performance, and I gladly give insights to others. However, we must separate helpful growth feedback from manipulative criticism. Growth requires constructive insights, but you must maintain a clear personal vision to avoid inheriting the limitations of others.

Turning high ambition into real action requires deep self-belief and absolute focus. A positive attitude keeps you moving forward through the dark. By staying resilient during my latest upheaval, I became much stronger. Your path clarifies the moment your purpose aligns with original work. We owe it to ourselves to nurture our own growth. Each victory strengthens our commitment to our personal mission.

The word Rashomon means more than just a complex situation with multiple perspectives. The literal Japanese characters translate to “a gatehouse at the city gate.” I spent half of my summer in the woods to pass through my own metaphorical gate. This quiet time allowed me to reset my system and plan my next steps. Moving frequently throughout my life gave me high mental agility, which fits my journey toward true freedom perfectly.

Defining What Home Truly Means

My search for a sense of home forced me to embrace every difficult test. I converted these daily difficulties into creative fuel. Today, I call several different places in the world home. Home is not a fixed physical coordinate. Instead, it is a state of being where like-minded people surround you.

Your psychological ecosystem depends heavily on your environment. You must find suitable companions who champion your creative flow, even with mundane, non-artistic tasks. A thriving environment allows everyone to create and share freely. This alignment always begins with your own choices.

I am not the exact same person I was yesterday, and I will likely change again tomorrow. Only my decisions in the present moment matter right now. Today, I feel firmly grounded in the heritage of my birthland. Ten years spent living abroad also shaped my global view. The present moment provides my primary focus and my greatest resource.

My true identity relies on building things up and moving forward constructively. I am a person constantly in motion. True personal evolution happens quietly and invisibly. We fulfill our mission the moment we live by creating what we love.

The post In pursuit of truth and true freedom. appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.

Published in LE MILE MAG and Scentury Mag: https://scentury.com/julia-ahtijainen/ 

A friend of mine, who hopes that one day I will change my field and stop wasting my talent and time, recently wrote to me: “I was thinking the other day that I really don’t like any perfume per se. All of them are just too damn strong. If they are supposed to enhance the person, they should never overpower them, but they always do. It’s like putting lipstick on a pig, but it’s still a pig.”

My friend accurately articulated the underlying anxiety I sometimes feel about my job. Communicating scents and perfumes is, after all, a strange and complicated field.

The Weird World of Scent Communications

Public relations and brand messaging sit in a bizarre purgatory. It exists somewhere between politics (where one must always remain polite and politically correct), babysitting (managing journalists while repeatedly explaining the importance of social media and press gifts to brand creators), and pure style. To succeed, you must look, sound, and act as a literal extension of the brand so you don’t lose loyalty points on either side of the business.

But how do we measure the results of these three competing roles? How do we quantify the blood, sweat, and tears invested in a few forced meetings and carefully polished words? Is it time wasted, or time beautifully invested?

Returning to my friend’s blunt expression: I am not a pig, and I generally dislike lipstick. Unfortunately for the PR industry, I am fiercely honest and direct. I also don’t particularly care for pigs or eating pork—unless it’s the mandatory slice of prosciutto crudo during a celebratory night out with my Italian friends.

The Semiotics of the “Dirty” and the Volatile

“Pig” is a word that carries an inherent smell. It is a heavy linguistic signifier packed with multiple cultural meanings, and certain religions ban it entirely. In his book L’Onesto Porco (“The Honest Pig”), Italian historian Roberto Finzi explores the animal from cultural, religious, and linguistic perspectives. Amusingly, the worst curse words in Italian always begin with the word porco, which also translates to “dirty.” Yet, despite the less-than-delightful smell of the slaughterhouse and the global rise of vegetarianism, most of the world still consumes pork.

Most animals only become “dirty” in our minds when we domesticate them; we accept them as they are when left in nature. In a domestic framework, everything transforms into a sign or a symbol. This realization opens a Pandora’s box of daily struggles for a semiotician trapped in product communications.

People have often accused me of being too opinionated in this line of work. Yet, if the word “perfume” originates from the Latin per fumus—meaning “through smoke”—our words naturally become volatile when communicating scents and perfumes.

To truly understand a phenomenon, a person, or a linguistic sign, we must categorize types and map out similarities and differences. We have to anchor the subject inside a structured framework so it cannot escape or fade away. When we discuss fragrance, there is no room for empty abstractions, plain delusions, or hollow expressions.

Aiming High in Fragrance Storytelling

Michelangelo allegedly wrote: “The greatest danger for all of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.”

We should always aim high. Communicating scents and perfumes effectively is a lot like leading the blind from a high peak. It requires leading them with genuine passion and absolute honesty. I am speaking about an artistic, truthful, and deeply humble way of translating outstanding liquid masterpieces into human language.

Applied semiotics functions as a creative act that elevates our communication. It sharpens our analytical frameworks to fit a specific purpose and maps them onto a real-world phenomenon. While a perfumer evaluates a scent based on quality, intensity, and duration of perceptibility, the storyteller treats the scent as a living entity. Capturing a fragrance in words requires the exact same imaginative effort that went into creating the juice itself.

A frustrated novelist probably lives inside every semiotician. To survive in this field, you must know how to write—but more importantly, you must know how to read. Reading is the ultimate technique for acquiring knowledge, sharpening insight, and honing critical skills. It allows us to compare subtle reworks, generic copies, and original masterpieces.

In this way, semiotic analysis feels less like marketing and more like detective work. It requires a willingness to be provocative. Semiotic theories serve as excellent hooks to hang our thinking on, and a deep knowledge of pop culture is not just a competitive advantage—it is vital for basic survival.

Navigating Our Chaotic Semiotic Environment

To decode the modern landscape, we have to understand the main characters driving our current semiotic environment:

• SPEED – Driven by rapid messages, instant feedback, information flow, rigorous execution, and real-time chronicles.
• CLUTTER – An explosion of competing ideas, content, books, music, events, and choices that demand pattern detection.
• UNPREDICTABILITY – Shifting definitions of accountability, structural flexibility, and constant cultural changes.
• DISTRACTION – Severe information overload that forces a constant battle for concentration and mindfulness.
• FRAGMENTATION – The rise of micro-niches, distinct subcultures, and the challenge of balancing the big picture with cultural sensitivity.
• IDEOLOGY – Navigating critical thinking alongside rapidly changing and competing worldviews.

The Primal Power of Olfactive Intuition

Once you wipe away the corporate lipstick and embrace this “dirty” way of analyzing fragrance, you realize the undeniable role of intuition.

Our sense of smell remains indisputably primal. Inextricably linked to memory, a scent sparks immediate neurological recall and emotional recognition. The archipallium (or archicortex) represents the most ancient part of our neuroanatomy—our primitive reptilian brain. Because of this raw connection, a perfume detective cannot complete a project without relying heavily on intuition.

One of the finest definitions of intuition belongs to legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, who noted:

“Intuition is not a miracle; it is a flame which is sparked only if the necessary amounts of knowledge, experience, reflection, and meditation are available. Perfumery schooling calls for patience, attention, and perseverance.”

The post Communicating scents: Putting lipstick on a pig? appeared first on THE FRANKLY SPEAKING.